Friday, May 20, 2022

Tamiya 1:32 Scale Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IXc, Part 6

The engine subassembly is nearly complete here. These parts practically hold themselves together. 

It wouldn't hard to add more details in the form of the missing wires and hoses. It looks like in many cases there's even places to attach them on the parts. I'd do it if I knew where things go. It occured to me that perhaps kit companies could include some detailed instructions for optional enhancement that they don't include materials for. 

This will look pretty good though. And unlike many models, with this kit it will be possible to remove panels to see the engine.   



Find the rest of this project here.

Wednesday, May 04, 2022

Eaglemoss 1:8 Scale Aston Martin DB5, Part 23 - Completed!

The passenger side ejector seat works when the gear shift (hidden red button and all) is pressed. I did it just once, hit myself in the face with the flying seat, then spent the rest of the day trying to get the seat latches back down. I will not be activating this special feature again.

The grey leather and floor mats look good though. 

The tracking device is hidden behind a sliding cover, just as shown in Goldfinger.  
The driver side door has a drop down panel with a telephone - pretty cool for 1964! The phone was not used in the film but did exist on the real car, and is here on the model. There's also the pull out drawer under the seat full of weapons - not used in Goldfinger.

The horn works with a press of the center of the steering wheel, just like you'd expect. The slight downside with that is that the range of the steering is constricted by the wires in the steering column. You have to be careful about that. No big deal really.
The tire slashers used by Bond in Goldfinger are on all four wheels. This model only has them on the rear wheels due to the practical difficulty of putting this feature on the front wheels, which steer. I have read that the real car had the same issue and that this was one of the few special features that did not actually work as shown on screen.
The rear lights tilt down. The film car had oil slick and smoke devices here.
Of course there's the iconic revolving license plates, front and back... Love that.
Pushers extend from the bumpers, both front and rear.
The bullet shield pops up fine, but it's a bit funky to get it latched back down.



The headlights and taillights work, activated with a button on the dash. The break lights come on when the brake pedal is pressed, and the car makes a surprisingly convincing engine sound that revs up when the accelerator is pressed. The floor pedals are pretty hard to reach but so it goes.

I'm pretty pleased with how the engine turned out, although there is a lot more detail that could be in there at this scale.


Here's a can of soda with the DB5 for scale. It's still hard to convey in photos just how big this thing is. It definitely makes a statement.

I have a few observations remarks about this model... 

Firstly, I'm glad I built it. This was a pandemic trapped-at-home idea. I had seen early pre-orders for this model, for the US, during the early days of everything being closed. The kit had been offered in Europe many, many years ago but apparently Eaglemoss was expanding their shipping to North America, and with it a new edition of their DB5.

On almost a whim, I pre-ordered a month or so before it was to start shipping. It took two or three months after the original promised date before the first issue and parts arrived. I had been getting worried as to whether I'd ever see it. Eaglemoss has a mixed reputation.

I liked the idea of not getting it all at once. I thought stretching out the project seemed fitting to our new semi-lock-down lifestyle. I also knew these models are typically not difficult to assemble. I was in the mood for an easy project that didn't take a lot of thought and effort. This fit the bill.

The result is very impressive at first viewing. It is a beautiful, and massive, representation of this iconic car, perhaps the most famous car in film. You just can't go wrong with the well finished paint on the all metal body. That quality of paint is exactly something I could not do.

As a kit though it does suffer the shortcomings that seem to be typical of large scale car models. The detail level is a mixed bag. If the designers of these sorts of things where not apparently so determined to avoid any sort of paint and glue, and traditional molded plastic, the resulting model could be indistinguishable from the real thing in photos. Basically, at 1:8 scale I don't think any detail is too small to include. Much smaller Wingnut Wings kits, for example, are significantly more detailed.

It is possible to greatly extend the detail and improve the look. I painted almost everything aside from the body. This helps a lot. And the grey interior looks good and it true to the film car. A person with more information and knowledge that myself could really get detailed at this scale. But also, at this scale, there ought to be a little more to it "out of the box" in my opinion.

Although all the gadgets technically work, some of them are really awkward and will see little, or no, use in the display, which is perfectly fine in my opinion. It's not a toy. The lighting behind the dash could be a lot better. I should have tried it out at an early phase of assembly and improved it. The instruments are too dim and the trackers is too bright and has light leaks. Overhead lights when the doors open would not have been a difficult addition.

The model is very expensive, lets face it. Of course the cost is spread out over as much as two years. And they sent a poster, a mini diecast DB5, two excellent books, a very good display case, and other extras. The magazine included with all but the last shipment is also quite good, loaded with 007 history, inside stories on the films, actor profiles and that sort of thing. So the value is there. I also cut the cost significantly by opting for the pre-order and accepting more rapid shipments at a discount, which they offered 2 or 3 times during the subscription. 

Back to the kit itself, it was mostly easy to assemble. I didn't have any trouble with the quality of the parts. Nothing was broken. It all fit. The huge exception though were those last steps with the body. There are people who have gotten all the way to those last steps and had to call the project a failure. That's how bad it is. Getting those big pieces mated together is stunningly difficult.

Many have written about very poor paint color matching on the body components. I guess they fixed that at some point, or maybe I just got lucky. Mine looks good as far as I can tell.

The instructions provided with each shipment, in the magazine, are almost completely worthless. They are misleading, incomplete, and frequently just plain wrong. This project would have been monumentally more difficult without this incredible site:

I can not express enough how helpful that site was.

For those that might be interested in building this Aston Martin DB5, I am not sure I'd recommend it. At least not unless you are someone that can deal with, and fix/improve, some of the disappointments and deal with making things fit when they simply do not. The body was a monster challenge. There are a couple other steps that wouldn't call "easy", but nothing at all like the body fit. For those interested in getting a taste of typical large scale cars, but maybe aren't up for headaches, check out Agora Models. Their Shelby Cobra in an excellent model.

Eaglemoss 1:8 Scale Aston Martin DB5, Part 22

The next step was installing the front of the body onto the rest. And I thought getting the rear of the body on was hard... That was nothing. Here, with the front, is where the trouble really began.

There was NO WAY the front would sit all the way down. The "fit" was... Well there was none. It doesn't fit. 

I ground the posts and holes the way I did on the rear but I'm not sure it helped. What may be the real problem is that the tabs of the lower part of the wind shield sit up above the level of the metal frame behind the firewall. I carefully ground the area down. I also ended up having to grind some of that metal frame. There was simply no way to front body could go down.  

Some people have noted that the instructions are incorrect in this area regarding the way the dashboard fits to that metal cross frame. I knew about that. There's a few other ways to cause too much height there too such as incomplete seating of the engine compartment. Mine is fine, everything is very snug and flush. But this area is none the less about 2mm total off.

You can see the gap that still remained. The bottom of that right side rocker panel misaligns with the bottom of the front body. And this was after a lot of alteration, grinding, filing and the application of all strength I had. I in all seriously forced this together with all the force I could. It's all metal. Nothing broke.

It's worth noting that I followed the advice of others and removed the window frame from the windshield during this process. It gets broken easily.

Next problem...  
With the front down as far as possible it might just be possible to get it the rest of the way by tightening the two screws that hold this area. However, there's one small problem. The supplied screws are literally physically too short to reach through to the body, even with the front body all the way down.

Amazing.

I tried for a while to locate other screws that would work, but this was not easy. Nothing I had on hand was right, and no other screws left from the DB5 would fit. Nothing left over from the Cobra worked either. Buying some proved difficult too. It's hard to get all the specs to line up. 

The best match was one of the screws left from the DB5 that had the same diameter and thread size, and was perfectly 1 or 2 mm longer. But the head had a flange so it would not fit down into the recess as needed. I removed the flange with the watchmaker's lathe and the screws were perfect. I think they were the 'J' screws if memory serves. As an aside, the very last magazine that arrived for the second to last installed of this model included a chart with the sizes of all the screws. It is absolutely baffling why this was not provided at the beginning.


Anyway, the last steps were connecting routing the wiring to its final position, putting the rear axle and wheels on, the bottom panel, and a few final details like the windshield wipers.


One big, heavy DB5 model!

See all the posts for this project here:

Find the complete photo album here:








Monday, May 02, 2022

Eaglemoss 1:8 Scale Aston Martin DB5, Part 21

It's really coming together at this point. Here's the front end of the body assembled as a unit, with the hood, lights, grill and bumper installed.
The interior is also assemble from previous subassemblies. Both seat are now in place with the dash and the rear seat. The passenger side ejection seat does work, but getting it latches back down is extremely difficult. I think I will leave it as is.
Next the interior assemble is put together with the front end, engine bay and finally the engine. It's been a long time since I had the engine out. It turned out pretty well!

Up to this point the assemblies went smoothly, but here some trouble began. The next step was to install the roof and read body onto the chassis, which now includes the interior and engine.

The fit was very poor. The body parts and frame are all metal (aluminium?) without much give. It just would not sit all the way down. I ended up disassembling some of what I had already done to determine that my leather was not adding additional thickness in the wrong place and causing trouble. Fortunately, that was not the trouble. The fit was just as bad with almost everything removed.

Note to self... If I ever build another one of these (I won't), test fit the major body pieces and frame all by themselves as soon as possible, with no additional assemble done.

I believe the posts in the body and the holes in the frame were not lining up. The post hit the outside edge of the hole and just stopped. It could not then line up and go down so a screw could hold.

I ground wider the holes, and rounded over the posts. The two could then begin to get seated correctly and the body could be forced down. And I do mean forced. The post could start to enter the holes, but getting the body to side down took A LOT of force.


Here is the grinding that allowed the post to get started in the hole.
Note the misalignment. That side rocker panel is part of the frame. The rear wheel well part of the body has to come down to line up.

Getting this together was just a matter of squeezing the rear body section down - hard - and getting screws in to hold it.

A managed to get it to within about .5mm on one side, and just about perfect on the other.

This model goes together strangely at the end. At this point the rear body and roof are on the frame, with the engine and front wheels, but no rear wheels or doors.

During this process I should note that I also connected power and tested all the electrical stuff except for the headlights. It all worked!

Here's the rat's nest of wires under the car. This will ultimately all be hidden.

There's not really enough light behind the dash but you can just see the glow of the instruments. The tracking display is also lit up. It looks great!

The car is big, really big. 


See all the posts for this project here:

Jeff Sexton

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